Kanotagarh to Kanota Palace – Part 1
Leaving behind the onslaught of traffic we headed for the narrow backstreet that bought us into the vicinity of the simple elegance of Kanota Garh Thikana, popularly known as Kanota Castle, a princely state of Rajasthan. We had driven on the Jaipur-Agra highway for 15 km from the former to reach Kanota, today it forms an integral part of the international and national tourism known for its tranquil stay, the mid-18th century palace charm! Also, it shot to fame as one of the film location in both parts of Exotic Marigold Hotels– the Hollywood hit movies.
The 19th century Kanotagarh palace lived in by the Thakurs of Kanota today mostly an ITC Storii Hotel
We entered the magnificent majestic gates of the Kanota fort past several Amla (Indian Gooseberry) trees whilst intriguing rituals and prayers were being performed by saree clad women in lieu of the Amla Ekadashi related to Lord Vishnu. Soon we were explained that in mythology it is believed that on the Amlaki Ekadashi festival;the devotees fast and worship the Amla Tree in which Vishnu resides himself!
The soothing colours attractive arched Entrance hall
Near the Entrance we had a chance meeting with the handsome young Thakur Kanwar Pratap Singh ji and were most impressed with his greetings! The Thakurs continue to live in their private residence in the vast complex.
Thakur Zorawar Singh- the Founder
We were about to enter an ancestral home Kanota Garh ,since 1870 that stretches within 8 acres and was founded byThakur Zorawar Singh who was an outstanding administrator and sportsman. He served the Jaipur royal family for almost 46 years, through the times of Maharajah Sawai Ram Singh to the Maharajah Sawai Madho Singh.
Writer under the portrait of the founder of Kanotagarh Thakur Zorawar Singh ji
He was a cabinet minister of the Jaipur state. We walked through the massive serene gardens towards the medieval Kanota palace lined with small Canons in the front. Our guide told us that they were symbolic of the Canons bought from the British Navy by Thakur Zorawar Singh to protect Kanota Garh. Our Escort pointed out to the lush widespread gardens on the left and right as being used by men and women separately at one time in the past!
We stepped into the grandeur of the central majestic Durbar-hall whose period furniture, paintings, rows of family portraits and interiors were splendid- all create a fine scene of lavishness and class of its own in unanimity.
The unique artefacts collection display of the Thakurs of Kanota
The crystal chandelier and the yellow walls added to the magnificent look. Do try the ‘Love chairs’ and the ‘Gossiping Chairs’ besides admiring the hundreds of curios and artefacts on display in well-lit areas – sparkling silverware and glassware too!
Maharajah Ram Singh of Jaipur
One cannot miss the real life portraits of the Thakurs of Kanota palace besides Maharajah Ram Singhji of Jaipur- Thakur Zorawar Singh, Thakur Narain Singh, Thakur Amar Singh ji and more.
Visitors on the Love and Gossip Chairs
Thakur General Amar Singh- Suite Museum and Library
Rare Book Library- Thakur General Amar Singh Museum-Library
From the Durbar Hall we proceeded to the General Amar Singh Kanota museum whose main attraction is a well-stocked Library. It takes its name after Thakur Zorawar Singh’s favourite grandson and a celebrated resident of Kanota garh, Thakur Amar Singh.
Books of Thakur Amar Singh in the ground floor library
On the first floor while browsing through his large handwritten diaries and books ; one can almost imagine him relaxing of the reading-chair there with the traditional silk cloth ceiling fan operated by a ’Pakkawallah’ sitting on the floor!!
The reclining chair of Thakur General Amar Singh ji in his library on the Ground floor
Many photographs later of the beautiful hand painted floral arches we proceeded to the Basement where the Rajput turban and knee high boots portrait of Thakur General Amar Singh greeted us at the entrance of the Museum and Library complex in the Tehkhana or Basement of the Kanota palace.
Beautiful plaster work in the library room
This was purely dedicated to him by setting up his personal Suite- on the ground floor and basement just as it was during his lifetime, for visitors like us. The collection of distinctive Rare Books with his personal 3000 volumes of books, periodicals, manuscripts and photograph albums is unique. Serving in the Army and widely travelled Thakur Amar Singh wrote for and read English literature, an unusual Rajput quality of that period. It is an exceptional library as the books here were bought not just for mere display but were read, commented upon and truly valued by their owner General Amar Singh.
In addition to the rare books; beautiful chandeliers, several kin- portraits, paintings, lamps, hookah and period furniture were laid out, just as it used to be when he resided here! The best part in the Suite-library was the beautiful golden and colourful frescoed floral borders and plaster-of-Paris work on the walls and ceilings which could easily beat any expensive wall paper! Each wood and glass bookcase had a hand painted floral border running around it.
The Writing Desk from the Past
The personal desk of Thakur General Amar Singh , arranged as it was kept by him from Old photographs
Rows of black & white photographs, trophies and other memorabilia greeted our eyes in the corridor of the large long basement that was part of the General’s bedroom. Next, we were enthralled with his sword lying on his medieval four poster bed and most of his belongings exhibited with a large 19th century Jaipur map on its wall.
Map of Jaipur seen in the visitor’s gallery of the Basement suite and library
We were informed that his Writing Desk had been arranged exactly the way he left it referring to old photographs! It was so real that I almost expected to see the General walking to his bookcase!! I was convinced that his spirit lingers around his treasures – the Books. His hand-written diaries run into volumes, which are a treasure to preserve in today’s times. He wrote in his diaries that he wondered if ever someone would read or print his literary work.
beautifully handwritten Diary of Thakur General Amar Singh in English
A Tribute- Present
Keeping up with his thoughts the entire collection of Kanota garh has been documented today and an inauguration of General Amar Singh Library and Museum was held in 2013 at a special ceremony presided by Maharajah Gaj Singh of Jodhpur and Rajkumari Diya Singh of Jaipur. They studied each and every exhibit in detail on their visit.
The museum Suite of Thakur General Amar Singh in the Tehkhana
As we climbed up the narrow stairs to the floor above I recalled reading earlier that Thakur Amar Singh had received special training under Sir Pratap Singh– the First Minister of Jodhpur , his father Thakur Narain Singh close friend; since the age of 10. That could be the reason that besides Polo, Hunting and Sports Thakur Amar Singh chose a military career that led him to participate in World War I!
Thakur General Amar Singh Suite inside the Museum Library
Subsequently we decided to step outside again to explore the panoramic gardens for female and male royal family members….unveil the museums and explore the carriage- collection and more on the Timeless Trails of the past to discover another Trail being created by the 52 room Luxury hotel being managed by the ITC Hotel Storii in Kanotagarh!
The engraved stamps of Kanotagarh used by Thakur Amar Singh